Thinking about starting locs? You might love the idea of a hairstyle that feels completely your own, or look forward to spending less time combing and restyling your hair each morning. Maybe you already wear locs and want to keep them neat without putting too much strain on your roots.
Locs can be a rewarding long-term style, but the way you start and care for them matters. This guide explains five common starting methods, how locs change over time and what to do to keep your scalp comfortable and your hair manageable.
What are dreadlocks or locs?
Locs form when sections of hair gradually intertwine and become more firmly matted. Some people begin with twists or coils, others use crochet or backcombing, and some allow the hair to lock with very little manipulation.
Locs have cultural and spiritual importance in many communities, including African and Rastafari traditions. They can also be a way to express your personal style. You may prefer small, neat sections or thicker locs with a more organic shape.
Unlike a temporary braided style, established locs are a longer-term commitment. They can sometimes be combed out, but that can be difficult and time-consuming, and results vary.
What are the benefits of choosing locs?
A hairstyle that feels like yours
Locs can reflect your personality, culture and preferences. You can choose a parting pattern, section size and shape that you enjoy seeing in the mirror. As the locs mature, their appearance changes too, so the finished look develops over time rather than appearing all at once.
Less daily detangling
For some people, locs mean less time with combs and styling tools. That may make busy mornings simpler. However, having locs does not mean you can forget about washing, drying or checking your scalp.
Different ways to style them
Depending on length and maturity, locs can be worn loose or arranged into other styles. Keep any ponytails or updos comfortable. Tight styling and heavy additions can pull at the roots, particularly along the hairline.
Locs don’t make natural hair grow faster, guarantee protection from breakage or prevent scalp problems. Their benefits come from choosing a method and care routine that suit your hair.
Five ways people start dreadlocks
Different methods suit different textures, lengths and goals. The method affects the appearance of new locs, the time involved and how you’ll maintain them. Ask a loctician what is appropriate for your own hair before committing.
1. Backcombing
With backcombing, a section of hair is combed towards the roots to encourage the strands to tangle together. It is one method sometimes used on straighter or wavier textures.
The early result may look less uniform than mature locs, and the technique can be time-consuming. Rough backcombing may also damage hair, so don’t assume doing it harder or more often gives a better result.
2. Two-strand twists or coils
A stylist sections the hair and creates twists or coils that can gradually develop into locs as the hair is maintained and matures. These approaches are often considered for curly or coily hair, although suitability depends on your texture and desired size.
New twists may loosen or change shape during the early stages. Ask what to expect from washing and maintenance rather than assuming the starting pattern will look the same forever.
3. Crochet method
A small crochet hook can be used to draw loose hairs into the section and encourage it to hold a loc-like shape. Some people choose crochet techniques when they want a more formed appearance sooner.
Precision matters. Repeated or rough use of a hook can weaken or break strands. Ask to see examples of the stylist’s work and find out how they balance appearance with the condition of your natural hair.
4. Freeform locs
Freeform locs develop with little sectioning or manipulation, allowing the hair to form its own patterns over time. The result can be more irregular and individual.
Freeform does not mean never washing your hair. Your scalp still needs cleaning, and the locs still need thorough drying. The amount of time they take to form varies widely.
5. Twist-and-rip
In this method, a section is twisted and parts of the hair are separated to encourage knots to form. It is sometimes considered for hair that does not easily hold coils, but it can put stress on the strands if done roughly.
Not everyone needs this method, and it should not be treated as automatically safer or better for fine hair. Discuss your hair’s strength and the result you want before choosing it.
Which method is right for your hair?
There isn’t one best loc-starting method for everyone. A useful consultation looks at your natural texture, hair length, density, scalp condition, the size of locs you want and how much upkeep you can manage.
If you want a very neat parting pattern, explain that. If you prefer a softer, more natural appearance, say so too. Bring photos of both new and mature locs so you’re comparing realistic stages.
It’s also worth discussing whether your chosen method can be maintained comfortably. Tight roots and repeated pulling are not signs of better craftsmanship.
How do you wash dreadlocks?
Clean locs begin with a clean scalp. Sweat, oil and product residue can build up even when you aren’t combing your hair every day.
Use a cleanser suitable for your scalp and the stage of your locs. Work gently around the roots without aggressively rubbing or twisting the strands. Rinse well, including through thicker locs, so shampoo and other products don’t remain trapped inside.
The original guide suggested washing once or twice a week, but that won’t suit everybody. Your activity level, scalp needs, hair thickness and maturity of the locs all affect the routine. Ask your stylist what works for your hair.
Why drying matters after every wash
Thick locs can hold water long after the outside seems dry. If you regularly leave them damp, they may develop an unpleasant smell and other moisture-related problems.
Gently squeeze out water using a towel and allow enough time for the whole loc to dry. Ask whether air-drying or a suitable hairdryer setting is practical for your thickness and length. Avoid going to bed while your locs are still wet.
Drying them properly may take planning, especially if your hair is long or you wash it late in the day. A realistic routine is easier to maintain than one you rarely have time to complete.
Should you use oils, conditioners or wax?
Not every product suits every set of locs. The original article recommended coconut oil and avoiding conditioner altogether, but scalp needs and product formulas vary.
Using more oil does not necessarily fix a dry or itchy scalp, and wax or heavy products may leave build-up inside the locs. Ask your loctician which cleansers and moisturising products suit your hair, and use only what you need.
If your scalp remains irritated, flaky or painful, seek health advice rather than trying to cover up the symptoms with extra product.
How often should you maintain the roots?
New growth is normal. Some people prefer frequent tidy-ups, while others like a looser appearance between appointments. The right timing depends on how your locs were started, how they are maturing and how your scalp feels.
Maintenance may involve retwisting, interlocking or another technique, depending on the locs. Overly tight or repeated maintenance can stress the roots. There isn’t one safe two- or three-month schedule that applies to everyone.
For more on styling and care, read our guide to starting, styling and maintaining locs in Brisbane.
Protect your locs while sleeping and styling
A satin bonnet, scarf or smooth pillowcase may help reduce friction overnight. If your locs are long enough to tie back, keep the style loose and avoid pulling tightly on the hairline.
Heavy styles or extensions can add tension, especially if you already have fragile edges. Tell your stylist about any breakage or thinning before choosing a new loc style. Locs and extensions cannot treat hair loss, and unexplained hair loss should be assessed by a qualified health professional.
Can you start dreadlocks yourself?
Some people do. But starting a consistent set of locs takes time, patience and an understanding of the method, and certain techniques can damage hair if used roughly.
If you’re unsure about section size, technique or the maintenance commitment, a consultation can help you make an informed choice before starting. Ask what can realistically be achieved with your own hair rather than expecting instant mature locs.
Frequently asked questions about locs
Do you need wax to make dreadlocks?
No. Different starting methods work without wax. Heavy products can leave build-up, so ask what is suitable for your chosen technique.
Do locs need regular washing?
Yes. Your scalp and locs still need cleaning. The right frequency varies, and thorough rinsing and drying are important.
How long does it take for dreadlocks to mature?
It varies widely with your hair texture, starting method and care. New locs often change in size and appearance as they develop, so discuss realistic expectations with your stylist.
Should retwisting or root maintenance hurt?
No. Ongoing pain, headaches or strong pulling can be signs of excessive tension. Tell your stylist if maintenance feels uncomfortable.
Can you undo dreadlocks later?
Some locs can be carefully combed out, but the process can take a long time and may involve breakage. Don’t assume removal will be quick or damage-free.
Talk about starting or maintaining locs in Brisbane
Kayisi Hair welcomes clients to Connie’s salon in Bracken Ridge, including people travelling from Chermside, Mango Hill, Everton Park and other parts of Brisbane.
Whether you’re starting your loc journey or want advice on keeping established locs tidy, bring your inspiration photos and questions. Explore Kayisi Hair’s dreadlocks services or contact Connie to discuss your hair and the look you’d love.